Wednesday, April 2, 2008

Spain Restaurant & Tapas Bar

Spain Restaurant & Tapas Bar
513 Tampa St.
Tampa, FL 33602
(813) 223-2831
http://www.tomaspain.com

Tapas 101, or, "Why the hell is the plate so small?"

Tapas, friends, is catching on. Or perhaps it is already out of style, as we here at Take Out Talk are usually a little behind on the trends. Regardless, "tapas" is a Spanish word that translates roughly to "appetizer" or "small plate." The legendary The Joy of Cooking tells us that the original tapas were merely bread slices that Andalusian bar-goers used to cover their glasses between sips of drink to keep the flies out. Delightful!

Today, tapas is a much more appealing concept, and specialized tapas bars are popping up all over the place. The concept is simple: get a few friends together, order several plates of tapas, and eat your way through the evening. Everybody gets to sample a little of each, and the meal becomes less about filling your stomach and more about socialization. And why shouldn't it? Eating out is a huge part of our culture, and we'll come up with desperate, often flimsy reasons to meet up with our friends and knock back a few chicken wings. Tapas just takes that togetherness a step further.

There are very few hard-and-fast rules about what is acceptable on the culinary front, and thus the dishes can range from the simple (a plate of assorted olives and cheeses) to the extravagant (octopus, mushrooms, chèvre).

Spain, on Tampa Street in the middle of downtown, manages to find some middle ground between rustic and avant-garde. Conveniently, it was my birthday weekend, so I already had a nice little entourage of willing and hungry loved ones; exactly what you need for a successful tapas dinner.

Let it be known that every Friday and Saturday night, Spain hosts a flamenco show. This is quite a feat considering the restaurant itself can only house about fifty or so patrons when packed to the rafters. Some tables are very, very close to the stage, which houses a flamenco dancer and a modest band of enthusiastic Spanish gentlemen. On these nights, there is a $6/person cover charge tacked onto your bill. The show, while fantastic and beautiful, is very loud. If you're planning on breaking up with somebody or negotiating some kind of business deal, weekends at Spain may not be the place to do it.

My table of four ordered a pitcher of red sangria ($25 for a veritable drum of it; if you want to get your money's worth, bring five or so wine-drinkers...or appoint a designated driver). In the end, there were five plates of tapas between us, which sent us home feeling pleasantly satisfied instead of overstuffed. They were as follows:

Calamares Fritos: Fried squid served with a spicy sauce;
Croquetas: Stuffed with Spanish serrano ham and served with aioli sauce;
Champiñones Extravaganza: Variety of mushrooms served over toast with goat cheese in a creamy sherry wine sauce;
Paella: Seafood rice served with clams, mussels, scallops, shrimp, chicken, ham, and chorizo; and
Empanadillas de Carne: Everybody's favorite meat pies, only tiny.

I'll make this quick, as there are five dishes to cover instead of the usual two. The mushrooms "extravaganza" wins in the taste and originality department. My only complaint was that there was only a minuscule amount of goat cheese. For the goat cheese-phobics (you crazies), don't be scared away from this item. The mushrooms certainly take center stage here.

The croquetas came in at a close second, although I wasn't sure where they came up with the serrano ham part. While they were definitely filled with something delightful, it wasn't ham.

The paella, calamari, and empanadillas were quite good, but were nothing outrageously spectacular. Additionally, I found the paella to be a bit lacking in fantastic seafood goodness. One of the many (sadistic) pleasures of that dish is digging the doomed mussels from their cozy shells, and I was, unfortunately, denied said pleasure this time around.

For the people who skipped the "sharing" portion of preschool, Spain also offers full-sized big kid entr
ées as well. While some of these are merely enlarged versions of the tapas (paella, for example), many of them are stand-alone staples in the traditional styles of the Valencia, La Rioja, and Murcia regions of Spain. This means lots of fish, meat, and potatoes accented with fresh citrus, ubiquitous olive oil, and generous amounts of wine and garlic.

Spain also features a full bar and a limited variety of beers. Really though, just drink the sangria.

Spain is trendily decorated in modern, minimalist white-on-white. A nice pair of jeans and something other than flip-flops should have you blending in nicely. The staff is helpful and unpretentious, especially when you find you can't pronounce something on the menu.

Reservations are an okay idea, but certainly not required. We were seated promptly without them. Finally, Spain is open for all three meals, serving a traditional Spanish breakfast beginning at 7 a.m. Monday-Friday. Spain is closed on Sundays.

Atmosphere: A-
Food: B+
Overall: A









Sunday, March 9, 2008

Daily Eats

Daily Eats
901 S. Howard Avenue
Tampa, FL 33606
(813) 868-3335
http://www.ciccioandtonys.com/daily.html

First, we'd like to mention that it is imperative that you acknowledge the "S" in front of "Howard Avenue." You do not want to attempt to find this place on N. Howard Avenue, because you won't. Instead, you'll run into markets that sell live hogs and a certain gas station owned by somebody named Super Mario.

Anyway, we know that SoHo is sort of an acquired taste, but even if you don't drive a Volvo/name your kids things like "Truman"/drink water out of an eco-friendly aluminum bottle, it's worth the trip. In these gorgeous days of early spring, the outdoor seating is something to take advantage of, if you can handle listening to the yuppie cars zoom back and forth on S. Howard.

Daily Eats is comfortably unpretentious with similar food offerings. A modern foodie's version of a 50's diner, you can get the usual patty melt or milkshake with several optional bells and/or whistles like goat cheese or something called "Nanner Pudding" ice cream (respectively, of course).

We went for an early dinner on Sunday. J ordered a regular ol' burger with guacamole on the side, and A went for the potato-chip crusted turkey burger with goat cheese, sautéed mushrooms, and caramelized onions. Each came with a choice of French fries, sweet potato fries (A++), side salad, baked beans, or macaroni and cheese. Not all of these offerings are on the menu, but your server should fill you in.

The turkey burger's potato chip crust grew a bit soggy under the girth of the turkey patty, and the crunch was more or less lost to the quagmire. Save some money (or calories, if that's your thing) and order the plain turkey burger instead. The other toppings, however, were out of this world and piled on without restraint. Lettuce, pickle chips, and a remoulade sauce are served on the side. It was all tucked cozily onto a sesame seed bun, although a variety of bread options are available, including ciabatta and toasted multi-grain.

The eponymous half-pound burger was pleasantly moist without needing the usual swath of ketchup. Also served on a sesame seed bun, this particular burger had guacamole on the side, and an extra sprinkle of pepper-jack cheese. The shoestring fries were crisp and delicious, and seemed to stay magically warm throughout the meal despite the breeze outside. The burger was also served without a tomato, which always pleases me, because tomatoes are messy and ruin the integrity of the bun's relationship with the burger.

The dessert offerings were both myriad and a little off-kilter, a nice break from chain restaurants' ubiqutous Chocolatetime Orgasm Fudge Geyser. Instead, ingredients like fresh fruit, cake, pudding and ice cream come together in tantalizing and unique combinations through the use of a parfait glass. We shared a sweet little invention called a Pecan Cinnabun parfait; an outstanding, balanced combination of cinnamon ice cream, honey-roasted pecans, honey, and whipped cream. Predictably, we could barely make it through half of it before food coma came on full-force. But oh, what a delightful coma it was.

Our dog came along, and was welcomed by both staff and patrons alike. Most places with outdoor seating will accept leashed and well-behaved dogs, but it's a good idea to call ahead.

Our major complaints had little to do with the restaurant itself. We grew chilly as the sun went down, and towards the end of our meal we were joined on the patio by two "shady" characters, sharing a cigarette despite the posted "No Smoking" signs. They changed their minds before their drinks arrived, and we were alone once again.

Most entrées at Daily Eats are in the $7-10 range, increasing for special ingredients like the aforementioned goat cheese. Desserts are usually under $5. A menu in PDF format is available at their website.

Weekdays, breakfast is served from 8-11a.m., and lunch from 11:15a.m.-3p.m. Weekend brunch is from 8:30a.m.-2:30p.m. Dinner is the same seven days a week, 5:30p.m.-9:30p.m.

Atmosphere: C-
Food: B+
Overall: B

Thursday, March 6, 2008

Welcome!

This is a blog dedicated to talking honestly about food in Tampa. I stress honesty because too many food blogs/columns these days are just masturbatory opuses by fat food critics. Jeffrey Steingarten, I may or may not be looking at you.

Tampa isn't exactly famous for it's world class restaurants, so my partner in crime and I will be making what we can of what we have, generally with un-altered food pictures.

So, in honor of our first entry, we ask you, the reader(s): This is Tampa Bay. You can indulge in tropical libations (sometimes), hit up a down-home dixie dive (yum!), or travel to the depths of the city to find the crown jewel of Cuban sandwiches. But there's always a place...you know the place. It's the place drive by almost daily. It's shrouded in mystery, or maybe it just keeps weird hours (Boston Grill on Fowler & Florida, WTF?!). Either way, you've never been...but each time you see it, you give it a wink and a promising nod.

Well, we're willing to do your dirty work for you. Name a place within the city limits (or a few miles out) that you've seen but never experienced. Then look for an honest, illustrated review here, in this very blog, in the coming weeks. Come on! We won't hold you accountable for the impending bout of diarrhea.

Crispily yours,
A&J